The definitive guide to get started now — with PLA and PETG FIL3D®
3D printing is literally about turning ideas into objects.
If you're just starting out, this guide takes you from scratch to your first well-made part — with a focus on FDM technology and PLA and PETG materials. FIL3D® (brand of TUCAB®).
What is FDM 3D printing? (in 30 seconds)
-
The printer heats a filament (PLA, PETG, etc.), pushes it through a nozzle and draws thin layers one over the other.
-
The 3D file is “sliced” by a program (the slicer) and transformed into G-code, which tells the printer where and how much to extrude.
-
Result: from a digital model, a physical object is born — in a few hours.
Why FDM in the first place?
It is the most accessible, safe, and secure technology. with a large community and economical filaments — and already allows for beautiful and functional parts.
Which printer to choose?
For end consumers, start with the reliable basics:
-
Cartesian FDM (Ender/Prusa style): simple, robust, lots of support content.
-
With bed heated (essential for PETG).
-
Useful volume ~220×220×250 mm fits most projects.
-
Bonus: removable printing surface (PEI/textured glass) and self-leveling.
Buying tip
Don’t just look at “maximum speed”. Focus on stability, support and community. A stable printer prints better and more predictably.
What you need to get started (quick checklist)
Hardware
-
FDM printer with heated bed
-
1 roll PLA FIL3D® (1.75 mm) for learn
-
Optional: 1 roll PETG FIL3D® for more resistant parts
-
Fine spatula, cutting pliers, nozzle cleaning needles
-
SD card/pendrive (or USB/Wi-Fi connection)
Software
-
Slicer free (Cura or PrusaSlicer)
-
3D models (you can start with online libraries)
Space & safety
-
Stable table, ventilated place
-
Avoid contact with hot parts (nozzle/bed)
-
Keep out of reach of children/animals during printing
Materials: PLA vs PETG (which one to use and when)
PLA FIL3D® — the beginner's friend
Why use: prints at low temperatures, almost does not deform, smells little, has a great finish.
Where it shines: decoration, prototypes, static pieces, toys, models, light utilities.
-
Nozzle: 200–210°C
-
Bed: 50–60°C
-
Part fan: on (80–100%)
Attention: softens ~60°C (cars in the sun, hot water) and it is more rigid than tenacious (breaks on strong impact).
PETG FIL3D® — the next step, robust and versatile
Why use: resists better to impact, heat (≈80 °C) and the outdoors; It is low-toxic and glues very well between layers.
Where it shines: functional parts, supports, connectors, boxes, semi-exterior uses, parts with screws.
-
Nozzle: 235–245 °C
-
Bed: 65–75 °C
-
Part fan: moderate (20–40%)
Attention: tends to cause stringing (wires). Uses right shrinkage and temperatures. On PEI/glass it can stick too much: apply thin glue stick as a “release layer”.
Sustainability
Both FIL3D® filaments are manufactured in Portugal with strict dimensional control. Less waste, more consistent parts.
Perfect first print in 20 minutes (step by step)
-
Prepare the machine (5 min)
-
Assemble and check screws/belts.
-
Connect bed and nozzle to material temperatures.
-
Leveling: use the sheet of paper method on the 4 corners + center (it should “scrape” lightly).
-
Clean the surface (isopropyl alcohol if it is glass/PEI).
-
Slice a simple model (5 min)
-
Open slicer → select “generic PLA” (or “generic PETG”).
-
Layer height: 0.2 mm (ideal balance).
-
Infill: 15–20%.
-
Adhesion: enable 5mm brim if you're just starting out.
-
Exports G-code.
-
Print and adjust (10 min +)
-
Just watch the first layer.
-
If the line does not stick → brings the nozzle closer to the bed by 0.02–0.05 mm.
-
If it “scrapes” and crushes the filament → moves 0.02–0.05 mm away.
-
-
After the 2nd/3rd layer, relax — the rest is patience
If the first layer is smooth, continuous and flawless, you are already 80% of the way to a good result.
Common mistakes (and how to avoid them in the first place)
-
Ask for peeling in the corners → cold/dirty bed, first layer high.
Solutions: clean the bed, raise 5 °C, use brim, re-leveling. -
Stringing in PETG → high temperature, low shrinkage.
Solutions: lower 5–10°C, increase shrinkage (4–6 mm in Bowden; 0.8–1.2 mm in direct drive), fan 25–40%. -
Layer shift → loose belts/impact on the part.
Solutions: tension belts, fix the part better, reduce speed. -
Sub-extrusion (flawed walls) → nozzle semi-clogged/moisture in filament.
Solutions: clean nozzle (cold pull), dry filament, confirm temperature. -
“Salmon skin” surface/vibration → high speed/acceleration.
Solutions: reduce speed to 40–60 mm/s; tightens structure.
Minimal maintenance that avoids headaches
-
Level from time to time (or whenever you change the surface).
-
Clean the nozzle regularly; Use cleaning filament when changing materials.
-
Lubricate shafts/bearings lightly every 2–3 months.
-
Store filaments in bag with silica (PETG thanks you).
-
Update firmware only when recommended by the manufacturer.
Useful projects to get started (and gain confidence)
-
Organization hacks: cell phone holders, drawer dividers, cable clips, hooks. (PLA)
-
Simple functional parts: covers, spacers, hinges, tabs, wall brackets. (PETG)
-
Education/creativity: models, puzzles, miniatures, cookie molds, translucent lamps. (PLA/PETG)
-
Quick fixes: drawer handles, appliance knobs, lost lids — customize and print.
Rule of thumb:
PLA to learn and improve.PETG to last and withstand use.
Recommended startup parameters (summary)
| Material | Nozzle | Bed | Part fan | Layer height | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA FIL3D® | 200–210 °C | 50–60 °C | 80–100% | 0.20 mm | Easy, stable, great finish |
| PETG FIL3D® | 235–245 °C | 65–75 °C | 20–40% | 0.20 mm | Sturdy; use glue stick on PEI/glass |
Final checklist before loading into “Print”
-
Clean and level bed
-
Filament dry and well fed
-
Correct profile on slicer (PLA/PETG)
-
First layer checked live
-
No direct drafts in the printer
-
Patience — the printer does the rest
Bottom line: print, learn, repeat.
3D printing is a delightful cycle of curiosity → trial → adjustment → achievement.
With a stable FDM, PLA FIL3D® to master the basics and PETG FIL3D® for robust parts, you have everything to go from idea to object without complications.
When the first piece comes out perfect, you will realize: the limit is now your imagination.

